Wednesday, November 5, 2014
My Reading Obsession
I have a secret reading obsession: I’m reading about the British Raj. I’m a
little embarrassed to admit my fascination with British colonialism, but rest
assured, I’m highly suspect of the white men who assumed they were inherently
better at running a country than its native people. Still, I’m hooked on the
details of the British in around India. I want to learn about the 19th
century, and travel writing and Kipling, and the history of the East Indian
Company. I want to know about the Mutiny of 1857. (Did you know this wasn’t
spurred on by nationalism, but by a rumor that Hindu sepoys were given cow
grease for their rifles?) I’m fascinated by life at stations in places like
Barrackpore in Bengal, and of the train rides to summer in Shimla. I want to
know about the servants and the clubs and what was eaten, and what one packed
for a life in India, and how one found a spouse. I can’t help keeping a list of words of the era that
fascinate me: ayah, bungalow, cantonment,
maidan, mahout, punkahs, purdah, sahib, sepoy, subaltern, zennana. (I also
can’t help my urge to alphabetize these words.)
Currently I’m reading Enid Saunders Candlin’s A
Travelllor’s Tale. Although not set in the Victorian era, Candlin provides
a wealth of information on India. Candlin found herself on the sub-continent after
the fall of Hong Kong during World War Two. Her husband was a weapon’s
inspector first near Calcutta and then later near Bombay. Part of the book is
devoted to some of the exotic trips they took to Sikkhim and Darjeeling and the
caves of Abernath. Even more interesting to me are the details of her domestic
servants and their various houses and settings, against the backdrop of the
war. I’ve been taking detailed notes on the houses she lived in as well as the
numerous rail journeys she took. The trains don’t sound that different from
when I visited in 1998.
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